Collagen is essential for young-looking skin because it gives structure to our skin cells. But as we age, the body produces less of it, since naturally occurring enzymes break collagen down, in turn, causing the skin to thin, loose fullness and form wrinkles. The sun, pollution, free radicals and smoke are also responsible for disintegrating collagen. “Stimulating collagen with at-home topical products, in-office treatments and proper lifestyle choices helps the skin maintain its strength, resiliency and volume,” says Madison, WI, Facial Plastic Surgeon Richard C. Parfitt, MD.
What is Collagen?
Collagen, which is found in our skin bones, cartilage tends and tissues, is a tough, almost rubbery protein that is created by cells known as fibroblasts. Packed together as bundles, the fibrous bands of collagen serve as the main support system of the dermis, the deepest layer of skin. Collagen also gives skin its strength, but it is a combination of healthy and ample amounts of collagen and elastin that makes skin firm and flexible. The body is constantly creating new collagen to repair what has been damaged. Around the age of 35, collagen production naturally begins to taper off, and the quality of collagen is not as good as in past years.
Elastin: Although the two function similarly, collagen and elastin are quite different, and each serves its own purpose. Like collagen, elastin is a protein, but it contains amino acids to give the skin elasticity. Preserving elastin levels allows for the skin to stretch and bounce back to its original shape. Comparable to collagen, elastin levels break down over time, contributing to wrinkles and saggy skin.
Collagen: Collagen gives skin its strength and resiliency. The stronger the collagen network, th e more resistant the skin is to wrinkling. Plus, it adds volume to areas that would otherwise form wrinkles and creases.
Types of treatment:
Targeted: Good for deeper wrinkles and folds in the midface.
Collagen stimulating fillers like Radiesse prompt the body to create new collagen. These fillers contain encapsulated beads suspended in a formula that fills in lines and wrinkles. As the filler is broken down, new collagen grows at or around the injection site to keep the area line-free. “These injectables provide immediate support and fill but have only been shown to stimulate very mild collagen activity at best,” says Orlando, FL, dermatologist Dimitry Palceski, MD.
Full-Face Makeover: Good for damaged skin overall, including acne scars and wrinkles.
Fractional laser skin resurfacing treatments provide collagen synthesis in addition to retexturizing damaged skin and wrinkles. “As the outermost layer of skin is injured, collagen is produced from within, which is necessary to create new skin,” says Wheaton, IL, dermatologist Stephanie Marschall, MD. “Although non-ablative lasers require less downtime, the results are not the same as what you get with deeper CO2 ablative procedures. More collagen is created quicker with ablative lasers,” explains Dr. Parfitt.
10-Minute Solution: Good for pigmented skin with textural issues.
Professionally administered Intense Pulsed Light (IPL) and LED treatments both employ light to create an inflammatory response. Using either red light, blue light or both, the light is absorbed by the body , sending a signal to create a therapeutic response at the site. LED works well on sun-damaged skin, which is usually depleted of collagen.
Skin-firming secret: Good for tightening slightly loose skin on the body and face.
Regardless of the mode used, skin-tightening treatments send energy down to the dermal layers to target collagen synthesis (without damaging the top layer of skin), which is what causes the skin to contract and become tauter. The treatment can be used for skin on the face and neck as well as other parts f the body that are affected by collagen loss.
New Beauty Magazine-SPRING-SUMMER 2010